For the Dandy on the go, The Spa and Barber at Alfred Dunhill is a delightful find.  Revive with an al-fresco espresso before a classic cut-throat wet shave (£40) or relax with a Bordeaux and imported cigar following a gentlemanly manicure (£40). The spa and barber setting is understated and tasteful, in true Dunhill masculine fashion. There are no shrines to Shiva or floating lotus flowers to be found.  On the spa menu, you’ll find a range of treatments from the classic 60-minute massage (£90) to complete full body packages for both men and women, starting at £140. Tailored to busy executives, the spa menu also includes Express services, all under 30 minutes, including a mini-facial, basic manicure, and a foot massage (£35-£45)..

The spa and barber do not offer sauna or shower rooms, so this is not a day spa setting. But should your visit to London require some shopping and a haircut, and possibly a Cuban cigar and glass of wine on a late afternoon, one could easily find themselves passing most of the day at Alfred Dunhill at Bourdon House.

Follow my advice and you’re sure to walk away with a great buzz and a satisfied palette. Upon being seated, immediately order your first round of Mimosas or Bloody Mary’s. Stay put! Wait for them to arrive, drink a quick toast and then send exactly half of your party to forage for the first round of food. Here’s the madness behind my method… by waiting for the cocktails to arrive before you visit the buffet, you are removing yourself from the self-imposed cacophony of crazed-buffet-feeding-frenzy-energy. You see… the casino is counting on you flying to the buffet to gobble up a bunch of muffins and yogurt and to be too full to eat the mind-splittingly-expensive imported Black Forest ham.

The first expedition to the buffet first should stick to plates of fresh and exotic fruit (maybe a bit of cheese). No carbohydrates, yet – they’ll fill you up too fast. The fruit will give you a bit of much-needed hydration in preparation for all the alcohol you’re sure to consume, and it’s light enough to not weigh you down too early in your brunch experience. As half of your group returns with some share plates and nosh, half the group is saved from the hungry seas of humanity, safely docked with cocktails and champagne in hand. This also allows the group to eat in more of a family style, leisurely – nibbly cocktail-hour manner. Much more civilized, don’t you think?

Once the community fruit plates are finished (and you’ve order another round of champagne cocktails), send off the other half of the group. Their mission is to bring back proteins and they should be on the lookout for the more exotic types. No link sausages here! If you can order it at the IHOP, why are you eating it in Vegas? Stick with the Kobe beef skewers, peel-n-eat shrimp, crab legs and lobster. Eggs are also acceptable, but only if they’re some overly fabulous quiche or maybe crab cakes benedict. Waffles are lovely, I know, but they don’t provide bang for the buck. And, you can easily order those with scrambled eggs at your neighborhood IHOP.

Keep ordering cocktails (when I say cocktails, I mostly mean the included champagne, with a possible peppering of mixed drinks), and keep sending half the group at a time. The less you have to rub elbows with all that humanity, the better! After several rounds of protein, consider introducing some fabulous-looking starches and maybe some other carbohydrates (although chances are you will have lost total interest in muffins by this point).

Lastly – dessert. Now, I’ve already introduced you to the concept of “staying away from anything that you could order at the IHOP” – but I’ll re-iterate for those of you who are still foggy on the concept. When it comes to Vegas buffet desserts, if you are squeezing out soft-serve ice cream, go back to the first paragraph and READ THIS AGAIN! Some of the finest pastry chefs in the world can be found in Vegas, and many of them contribute to the casino buffets. Dessert is the time for you to indulge in a level of confectionary decadence that would cause teeth to tingle from the sugar content and force you into a diabetic coma. Finish dessert, order one more round of cocktails before stumbling out, and feel secure in the knowledge that you have gotten the maximum out of your Vegas buffet experience!

-Rick Rifle

The Paradise Garden Buffet at The Flamingo (www.flamingolasvegas.com) offers Champagne Brunch on Saturday and Sunday for $19.99 in a beautiful retro-kitsch atmosphere. Bellagio’s (www.bellagio.com) Saturday & Sunday Champagne Buffet will set you back $28.95. Saturday and Sunday Champagne Brunch at The MGM Grand (www.mgmgrand.com) costs $27.49. Treasure Island’s (www.treasureisland.com) Champagne Brunch on Saturday and Sunday is a very affordable $20. Sterling Brunch inside Bally’s Steakhouse (www.ballyslasvegas.com) is a pricey at $85, but includes all-you-can-drink Perrier-Jouët Champagne. Weekend Champagne Brunch at Wynn Las Vegas (www.wynnlasvegas.com) is $36.95

The selling point for Max was the spacious, detached artist studio in the back. Max escorted me to his workshop and I was instantly transported to another galaxy. Working mostly in clay, his vivid creations border on the sublimely perverted. Rows of Smiling Bunnies in human garb march right out of a bad acid trip. His Incan-like creations, many with prominent phallic displays, have a pronounced alien feel. Max started in ceramics as a child. He went on to graduate from Arizona State University in Tempe, and soon landed in the prestigious Elaine Horwich Gallery in Scottsdale. He’s been a professional, working artist in Santa Fe for twenty years now. A few years back, when Max hit 40, he gave his art a rest and went into computer animation and web design. But now it’s easy to see, that Max is back to clay and titillated at the thought of playing with people’s minds through his own imagination.

Work by Max Leahman

As a product of the first, real TV generation, Max sees his work as a commentary on modern life in the United States. With media overload and instant gratification now the norm, he sees his work as “eye-popping vivid eye candy that likes to stand out.” He says his collectors like the “total inundation” they get from his creations. Is this how Max sees himself, his world? Perverted, multi-headed, splintered in abstract, yet… funny?  I ask him about the alien angle to his work. You can see this inter-galactic influence not only in his ceramics, but also in the animation seen on his website.  “I’ve always been an alien,” he says. “I’m of the Star Trek Generation. And the great thing about Santa Fe is, that if you don’t fit in anywhere else, you’ll fit in here.” Then he laughs, “I guess we’re a little like the ‘Island of Misfit Toys’.”  And yet he ruminates about how the city is changing. The once quaint dirt roads in town are now mostly all paved, a good thing, especially during the rainy season. But the local government here can also be seen as either progressive or overly intrusive. Talking on the cell phone while driving will get you pulled over. Smoking a cigarette practically anywhere in town except your home or car will get you a hefty ticket. Driving under the influence is a hot topic around here. Recent crackdowns have many bar and pub owners concerned. And let me tell you from my own experience, these people like their cocktails.

But Max thinks that most “big city” people don’t last in Santa Fe. “They come here and either want to change everything, or expect the city to stop in time.” Max has lasted so long in this remote, high-desert community by maintaining his individuality while at the same time, surrendering to the natural flow of Santa Fe’s idiosyncrasies. “Santa Fe can be a little slow, a little boring at times. That’s why you have to make your own fun. But most important, it’s an environment that supports artists.”

Work by Max Leahman, titled 'Gidget Goes Saturn'

'Time Out' an original work on canvas by Joe Garcia

Later in my visit, I found myself chatting with a handsome guy who ended up being a local artist. When I made mention that I was in town checking out the local art scene, Joe Ramiro Garcia happily escorted me to a nearby gallery where his work was on exhibition. Everyone seems to know everyone in this part of the country,  so it came as no surprise to learn that Joe knew my friends here in town. Chatting over a few beers he told me how he ended up an artist in Santa Fe. “I grew up in Houston, Texas, with a train running through my back yard. For eighteen years I read the words, ‘Santa Fe’. At twenty-years-old I found myself hitchhiking through the area, and decided to check the place out to see what it was like. Once I got here, I felt that the city wanted me here. So i stayed,” Joe says.

“My experience of living in Santa Fe has been wonderful. This is the first place I’ve felt a sense of home. I can relax here in a way I don’t find anywhere else.”  Joe has come a long way from a teenager collecting urban fragments in Texas and turning the findings into art. Now he works in oil and hangs in high-end galleries. But you can still see the trash-collecting teenager in his work. His pop-culture imagery and surreal backdrops are humorous, slightly disturbing, and yet comforting. You can almost hear the train of his youth rolling through his imagination. What you’ll always find in Santa Fe, be they artists or not, are truly independent spirits whom cherish life’s experiences on a daily basis. People who are happily surrounded by rich history, great food, amazing nature and most importantly, surrounded by each other. It is the synergy of the Native American, Hispanic and Anglo cultures that make this a different kind of enchanted city. It is why the art world flourishes here to such a degree. There is also the natural beauty that instills an artist with immeasurable freedom to imagine, express and create.

While the golden era of trans-Atlantic crossings began a steady decline decades ago, Cunard has been steadfast in its mission to maintain its upscale, iconic brand, most notably with the launch of the Queen Mary 2 in 2004. Featuring the prerequisite opulent public rooms and a distinctive red funnel, her extra-thick steel hull was designed with the strength and stability needed for trans-Atlantic crossings. The first authentic ocean liner in 35 years, the QM2 also held the honor of the largest passenger ship in the world, if only for a few months.

In late 2007 Cunard launched yet another new ship, the Queen Victoria. This Vista Class cruise ship is noticeably different from the QM2, not only because of her smaller size, but also due to the extensive use of glass in its superstructure, designed so that the vast majority of staterooms have verandahs or ocean views. While the QM2 is definitely an ocean liner, many cruising aficionados contest that the QV is simply another cruise ship. While many highbrow cruise critics heralded the massive QM2 with great fanfare, the Vista Class has been less enthusiastically received. But such snobs of the high seas should remember one thing, called the Panama Canal, something the QM2 isn’t able to squeeze through.

The new Queen Elizabeth will be just slightly larger than QV at 92,000-tons, carrying 2,068-passengers and promises to deliver a timeless sophistication reminiscent of the years when Cunard’s first Queen Elizabeth ruled the seas. Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II will officially name the new Cunarder on Monday, the 11^th of October, with all the pomp and circumstance we love so much. (Cunard’s Queen Victoria got named by Camilla, Duchess of Cornwall. I sense some sisterly jealously in the future.)  What binds these ships, even more than Cunard’s rich history, is the level of service and sophistication found onboard. While most cruise lines are shifting towards freestyle dining and 24/7 casual wear, Cunard’s Queens still maintain a high level of old-world style with class-based dining rooms and numerous formal nights. Although less stuffy than in the past, you can still expect to experience the finest things in life, at sea, with any Cunard voyage.

Silversea

The world’s best small ship cruise line, Silversea, is celebrating their 15th year of bringing fine European elegance and service to exotic destinations around the globe. At a time when many cruise lines are charging guests for beverages, gratuities and port charges and handling fees in addition to their cruise fare, Silversea’s fares are truly all-inclusive, with every aspect of the onboard cruise vacation being covered, even select wines and spirits. This ultra-luxurious fleet of purpose-built small ships defies the popular adage of “bigger is better.”

Designed specifically for navigating waters in some of the world’s most remote destinations, the purpose-built Prince Albert II debuted in 2008 with a strengthened hull and eight Zodiac boats, allowing 132 lucky passengers intimate experiences in some of the most remote locations on our planet, including both of earth’s polar regions. The 540-passenger Silver Spirit is the newest vessel in the Silversea family, offering the distinctive luxurious amenities and service Silversea guests adore, plus enticing enhancements including a new supper club, an Asian-themed restaurant, an 8,300-square-foot spa, and the largest suites in the Silversea fleet, with 95% featuring private verandas.

Holland America

Holland America’s ms Eurodam, which launched in June 2008, was the first in the line’s new Signature-class series with enhanced and reconfigured restaurants, bars, show lounge and public spaces.  Some of the more dramatic additions that highlight the line’s luxury brand are the newly created spa suites within close proximity to the Greenhouse Spa and beautiful private outdoor cabanas available for daily rental. The 56 luxury Spa Staterooms feature special in-room spa amenities like a water feature, organic cotton bathrobes and upgraded bath products like aromatherapy bath salts and body products.  You’ll also find an iPod docking station, a yoga mat and a spa concierge to assist you with spa visits.

The airy, tented cabanas are located on the Observation Deck in a secluded area called the Retreat with other cabanas featured in the more lively pool area on mid-ship’s Lido Deck. In addition to private deck chairs, cabanas also feature chilled waters and tasty treats such as frozen grapes, chocolate covered strawberries and champagne.  The reasonable rates from $30 to $75 for the day, is money well spent for the added privacy and exclusivity one feels once behind the velvet rope.

Regarded world-wide as one of the most eco-friendly cruise lines, Holland America continues to expand their environmental practices, knowing that every little bit helps move the industry further to a greener horizon. Onboard the Eurodam, advances in engine power technologies offer reduced visible smoke and nitrogen oxide emissions while producing 64 megawatts of electricity. The new Signature Class series are outfitted with advanced wastewater treatment systems, capable of treating both black and gray water to near drinking quality, exceeding maritime industry standards.

Even the dry cleaning system aboard the Eurodam is more eco-friendly, using a new wet-cleaning technology, free of the traditional harsh chemicals often found in traditional dry cleaning systems. Recycling has been a standard operating procedure for Holland America since 1993. Each Holland America ship has a crew of five who are responsible for the disposal of the eight tons of solid waste generated on each seven day sailing, with the recycling proceeds from glass, aluminum, cardboard and other recyclable materials going to the shipboard crew benefit fund.

Launched from Italian shipbuilder Fincantieri’s Marghera shipyard in Venice on July 4, 2010, the 86,000-ton Nieuw Amsterdam celebrates the glamour and history of New York City, formerly called Nieuw Amsterdam, with its inspired interior design and art collection. Cunard is not the only line to borrow names from the past. The first Nieuw Amsterdam was launched in 1906 and used both a full set of sails and steam engines. She was 17,149 tons and carried 2,886 passengers, 2,200 of them in third class.

RSVP

Congratulations to RSVP Vacations on their 25th anniversary! To celebrate they’re throwing some fabulous parties in some pretty fabulous waters. RSVP will be the first company to charter Holland America’s newest flagship, Nieuw Amsterdam (see above) in February 2011 as they sail from Ft. Lauderdale to Mexico and Honduras. Limited balcony and ocean view staterooms are still available for this month’s Hawaiian Islands Cruise, a first for RSVP.  But if you understandably need some extra time to save up those travel dollars, pull out your piggy bank and mark your calendar for July 9-16, 2011. You’ll be headed to the Mediterranean on this just-announced RSVP cruise through Italy, France and Spain.

By Alesha Vanata

I’ll never forget the day a bottle of wine changed my life.  The exact moment I realized that the fermented grape juice I was drinking was much more than just a teeth-staining, delicious libation.  It was the evening that I realized that the opening of a bottle of wine, had as much to do with the experience, as drinking the wine itself.  When all of the varietals aligned, wine drinking became a lesson in tradition and history, as well as a lifestyle.

It all began with a simple slice of the foil around the lower lip of the bottle, uncovering the eye of a stunning 35 year-old cork.  A precise trace around the mouth with the knife of my wine key and the cork was ready to be coaxed out of its resting place.  With anticipation building, I slowly and deliberately dove the corkscrew into the center of the tender cork, gently twisting until the worm was almost completely submerged.  Delicately I placed the level on the lip of the bottle and gingerly began pulling out the cork. Having worked in restaurants for many years, I had the opportunity to open hundreds, if not thousands of bottles of wine.  But it was uncorking this bottle that brought to light the importance of what the cork represents and the knowledge it carries with it.

Made from the bark of the Cork Oak, natural cork has been used to seal wine bottles since at least the 1600’s. The life spans of these majestic trees can exceed 200 years, and one tree can be harvested a dozen times in the course of its life.  The majority of cork is manufactured in Portugal and Spain as the oaks thrive in the warm, dry climate.  For all its tradition and importance, cork has come under attack in recent years due to cork taint caused by the presence of a chemical called trichloroanisole, or TCA.

Presently, winemakers have several other options in wine closures.  While natural cork is still predominant, alternative closures are beginning to find popularity. Synthetic cork, made from plastic and originating in Washington State, keeps with tradition but yields the highest percentage of oxidation in wines and is not biodegradable, resulting in a lot of tainted wine and a even more plastic that will never go away. The vino-seal is a relatively new wine closure, which is made of glass.  Perhaps the most elegant of all the new wine closures, it has not found its way into the main stream market because of the high cost of manufacturing and the cost of manual bottling, due to the lack of compatible machinery outside of Europe.

Another option is the zork, the sexiest of the new closures I have seen.  It is reminiscent of a maker’s mark bottle top. You peel it, and then pop it open.  The zork uses the sealing technology of a screw top closure while delivering a pop when it is removed from the bottle.  The zork has only been on the market since 2005, and a sparkling wine closure is due out in 2009.  A product of Adelaide, South Australia and is made up of 100% recyclable polyethylene and is reusable.

Screw-top closures have become much more common over the last few years. Many innovations have been made to the original, which was developed in New Zealand in the 1970’s.  The screw top offers a tighter seal than natural cork and can keep oxygen out of the wine for a longer period of time.   A blessing for wines that are meant to be drank right away, however it will be years before we have any data on the screw-top’s ability to age a wine.  Screw-tops are quick, convenient and effortless.  Without the need for a corkscrew or wine key to open a bottle, wine becomes more accessible and immediately gratifying.  Still, there is no romance in screwing off an aluminum cap.  While a screw-top may bring back fond memories of high school shenanigans with a bottle Boone’s Farm or Mad Dog 20/20, it does not hold the same reverie as sliding out a natural cork.

The market will dictate which closures will succeed or fail.  As young wine makers take the reigns from the old, let’s hope they will remember to keep the traditions that have been passed down to them.  Natural cork embodies centuries of tradition.  From its birth as tree bark, to the years it spends in a bottleneck, the natural cork should not be dismissed or left by the wayside.   One little cork holds knowledge and practice that has been passed from generation to generation. In a world of innovation, a little tradition goes along way.

Editor’s Update:

vonSchmitt.com received word from the synthetic cork industry in Washington State with an update on synthetic closures. Explaining… “that we are now onto the second generation of synthetic closures which has the same permeability as a natural cork and therefore doesn’t have a problem with oxidation. It is also fully recyclable into planters, kids playground surfacing, etc.” Going on to mention… “in several major winery trials our current closures outperform them (other closure types) on the key test of a closure – how the wine tastes!”

Yes indeed, we can all agree that taste matters.

An integral destination in your cultural explorations of Santa Fe will be Museum Hill, a short drive or shuttle ride from Santa Fe’s downtown Plaza. Here you’ll find four distinct museums that beautifully chronicle the last 400 years in Santa Fe’s history from different perspectives.  Located on this hilltop overlooking Santa Fe, The Museum of Spanish Colonial Art is housed in a building that is itself an important expression of this living tradition, having been designed as a residence in 1930 by John Gaw Meem, a leading figure in the development of New Mexico’s Spanish Colonial/Pueblo Revival architecture.

A contemporary 'bulto' sculpture depicting the Catholic Church's turning its back on social issues.

Unique in their global range and their representation of daily life in the colonial world, the 3,000 objects in its collections include devotional and decorative works and utilitarian artifacts, representing an artistic heritage of five centuries and four continents, including works by present-day Hispano artists of New Mexico.  You’ll discover beautiful old-world religious paintings on wood, called retablos and many bultos, freestanding religious sculptures, along with colonial furniture and textiles. The vast array of personal adornment objects such as crucifixes and rosaries, necklaces and fanciful hair combs really puts a human touch on the museum, making it feel like you’re walking through someone’s home. It’s thrilling to fantasize about the vast global commerce that forged what is today modern New Mexico, with many of these objects originating in Spain, Argentina and Brazil, even the Caribbean, China and Morocco.

Bronze sculpture of native dancer atop Museum Hill

The Museum of Indian Arts and Culture, also on Museum Hill, focuses on the wide cultural spectrum of the indigenous peoples who have inhabited these lands for many thousands of years. The mission of the museum and its Laboratory of Anthropology is to “inspire appreciation for and knowledge of the diverse native arts, histories, languages, and cultures of the Greater Southwest.” An emotional and fascinating core exhibition, is Here, Now, and Always, based on eight years of collaboration among Native American elders, artists, scholars, teachers and writers. This multi-media journey has you explore vast regions of the American Southwest and the many tribes and cultures that continue to call this land home. Voices of fifty Native Americans guide visitors through the Southwest’s indigenous communities and their challenging landscapes, weaving a story that begins in a time, “before words, before mountains, before rivers, before people.” More than 1,300 artifacts from the Museum’s collections are displayed, accompanied by poetry, story, song and scholarly discussion.  Also at The Museum of Indian Arts and Culture is The Buchsbaum Gallery of Southwestern Pottery with nearly 300 vessels on long-term display, ranging in age from the inception of pottery making in the Southwest, up to the present. Case after case of such beautifully handmade works, so tastefully presented, continued to fill the mind and soul with great appreciation for these native cultures.

Also at Museum Hill are several other prominent museums, the Museum of International Folk Art and the Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian. Clearly, a comprehensive visit to Museum Hill is not possible in one day alone. Consider purchasing the New Mexico Culture Pass, and schedule your visits over several days. While there are numerous fine museums and monuments worth visiting in Santa Fe, you’ll definitely want to tour the Palace of the Governors, the oldest continuously used public building in the United States and its adjacent, New Mexico History Museum, which just opened last year.

One of the best ways to experience Santa Fe’s history is through the culture of today. There are many cultural ‘Fiestas’ and ‘Markets’ that are hugely popular with locals, and represent the vibrancy of Santa Fe’s contemporary spirit.  In July there is the Spanish Market where generational New Mexico and Southwest Spanish artists set up booths in the Plaza to show and sell their craftwork. Also in July, is the highly successful International Folk Art Market.  Artists from all over the world ply their goods and craftwork at this greatly attended two-day event. In August there is the Indian Market, the largest of its kind in the world.  Native Americans from all over North America assemble in and around the Plaza to show and sell their craftwork, while buyers from all over the world filter into Santa Fe at this time to add to or start their collections.

Fiesta, an annual celebration in September by the Spanish community commemorating the conquest of Santa Fe.  ’La Conquistadora,’ now known as ‘Our Lady of Peace,’ a statue of the Virgin Mary, is paraded through downtown Santa Fe from the Basilica Cathedral of St. Francis to the Rosario Chapel, where a nine-day novena is prayed, and then she is returned.  The statue can also be seen in her own sanctuary regularly at the Basilica.  She was made in the 1330’s in Spain, traveled to Mexico and brought up to the New Spain territory by the early Spanish.” Jonathan also noted that in true Santa Fe quirky fashion, another symbolic figure has entered the Fiesta scene. “Since the 1920’s, Zozobra has become a Santa Fe tradition and pagan ritual.  It’s the symbolic burning of old man gloom, a 50-foot high puppet surrounded by much ceremony.  Put your woes, worries or problems on a piece of paper and have it burned with Zozobra. Although not originally associated with Fiesta, it’s been incorporated as a part of Fiesta and remains an iconic figure in Santa Fe culture.”

A native dancer performing in Santa Fe's downtown Plaza.

References to Santa Fe’s 400^th anniversary are found throughout the city. And while Santa Feans are proud their home is the oldest capital city in the United States, what they are most proud of is that their history is alive, and thriving. The Anglo, Native and Hispanic cultures have successfully forged a unique culture, as committed to the future, as they are respectful of the past. From signature styles of dress, to iconic architecture and a thriving arts community, Santa Fe is as much a city of the future, as it is the past. While the old paradigm of conquest, conversion and assimilation on which this city was built, still plays out around our world, in some form or another, the Santa Fe of today has shown me that a new paradigm is possible, one of inclusion, acceptance, creation, and a lot of fun.

There are many ingredients that typify New Mexican cuisine, such as goat cheese, pine nuts, squash, avocados, black and pinto beans. You will find these ingredients in almost every restaurant in Santa Fe, in some dish or another. But there are two food items that instantly come to mind when I think of New Mexican cuisine – chilies and corn. A food staple of New Mexico for many hundreds of years, you’ll find white, yellow and blue corn in many different dishes, some of which you are already familiar with.  Who doesn’t love some version of Nachos? Served best, in my opinion, with blue corn chips, black beans and lots of cilantro.

Corn is also the main ingredient in Tamales, where the cornmeal dough (known as Masa) is wrapped in a cornhusk and filled with shredded pork (my favorite) chicken or beef. Another corn-based regional specialty is Posole (po-SO-lay), often considered a seasonal winter dish, you can sometimes find Posole on menus across Santa Fe, year round. Posole is prepared by soaking hard kernels of white, yellow or blue field corn in powdered lime and water. After several hours, when the corn kernels have tripled in size, the liquid is allowed to evaporate and the kernels to dry. The dried Posole can be stored for years following this initial preparation, until the time comes when you have five hours to prepare the dish. This stew of onions, garlic, dried red chile pods, cilantro, chicken broth and corn is New Mexico’s medicinal answer to chicken noodle soup.

The chile pepper is truly one of the most interesting food items found across the Americas, indeed, the world. There are some widespread misnomers about the chile, that sadly deter sensitive palates from experiencing what could be defined as a true awakening of one’s senses. First off, a chile is not a vegetable. Much like the tomato, the chile is actually a fruit, specifically, a berry. While the origins of the chile pepper are still disputed by historians and food scientists, its varieties and uses are seemingly limitless, from the fresh addition of a red bell pepper to salads to the more intense use as a spice, found in cayenne pepper. A green chile is simply an unripe chile, and red chilies contain high amounts of vitamin C.  In addition, chile peppers are also a good source of most B vitamins, potassium, magnesium and iron.  The New Mexico Chile commonly used in New Mexican cooking is a subspecies of the Anaheim pepper, relatively mild in flavor and heat. The standard measuring formula for chilies is called the Scoville scale, which rates a chile’s intensity in measurable units. Some chiles are strong enough for military use, and simply not edible, no matter how brave one might be. The Habanero, Malagueta and Tabasco peppers are fairly high on the edible scale of peppers, while the standard Bell Pepper, is considered “heat free.”  The New Mexico Chile you’ll hopefully devour in Santa Fe falls roughly in the middle, between the Bell and Tobasco pepper. So you see, there’s nothing to be afraid of. Many dishes in New Mexico, such as Chile Relleno and Enchiladas, are offered with your choice of a red or green chile sauce. Again, these sauces are relatively mild, yet full of warm flavor. I suggest asking for “Christmas Style” when ordering, which will get you half green and half red, a beautiful combination any time of the year.

Santa Fe Classics:

The drink of choice in Santa Fe is the classic Margarita, made from real Mexican tequila, triple-sec and fresh-squeezed lemon or limejuice. A purist will order their margarita over ice with a salted rim, never blended, while fruity frozen versions are also popular. The Pink Adobe (www.thepinkadobe.com) is a landmark restaurant with cozy alcoves and romantic wood-burning fires in a 300-year-old house, easily spotted just opposite the San Miguel Mission in downtown Santa Fe. Step into the bar area, known as the Dragon Room Lounge, a favorite gathering place for locals. In addition to the classic Margarita, the lounge also serves a “lighter” bar menu, including a Green Chile Stew of pork loin cubes, potatoes, tomatoes, onions and New Mexican chile. If the heat of this must-have Green Chili Stew gets to be too much, try ordering another margarita.

Santacafé (www.santacafe.com) is a newer addition to the Santa Fe restaurant scene, at least when compared to The Pink Adobe’s prestigious 65 years. Since 1983, Santacafé has been serving a signature blend of American classics with a Southwestern twist. The dinner menu is a beautifully presented selection of fine steaks, chops and seafood, served in a charming 19th Century historic abode of four candlelit dining rooms with corner fireplaces. But the best time to visit this downtown destination is at lunch, especially in the summertime. The courtyard patio is a vibrant scene in the warmer months as locals and visitors-in-the-know flock here for delectable lunches at very low prices. I suggest starting off with a glass of wine in the quaint bar area, before settling into a patio table. Take special note of the glass-covered, twenty-foot well in the middle of the bar’s floor. Quirky accents like this preserved hand-dug well add a special ingredient of history and charm to the dining experience.

Santa Feans are an opinionated bunch of eccentric types, that dine regularly on gossip and season heavily with conjecture; perhaps that why I keep going back. Other than local politics and art, there’s nothing they take more seriously than their food. Specifically, the Northern New Mexico cuisine like you will find at Maria’s New Mexican Kitchen (www.marias-santafe.com) and at Tomasita’s (505-983-5721), two very similar culinary vanguards. It’s ill advised to ask a small group of Santa Fe friends which restaurant is better, Maria’s, or Tomasita’s. A verbal volley is sure to ensue, time that is better spent waiting for a table at either location. As a frequent visitor to Santa Fe, I can tell you both restaurants serve up mean cheese-filled Chile Rellenos, Enchiladas and Burritos in a casual setting, and both pour delicious margaritas to an endless stream of hungry diners at lunch and dinner. While my personal opinion is somewhat baseless, grounded in little more than a “feeling,” I risk offending half of my friends in Santa Fe by saying that Maria’s edges out ahead of Tomasita’s, if only by a smidge.

A great way to enjoy New Mexican cuisine is at home with friends over free-flowing margaritas. You don’t need to live in Santa Fe to learn the recipes and find the necessary ingredients. Los Chileros (www.888eatchile.com) is a small New Mexico-based company, and for the past 25 years chiles have been their business. Over the years they have expanded their offerings of whole, crushed and powdered chiles and spice blends to include other mixes, rubs and salsas while maintaining a high degree of quality in their authentic products. Their Green Chile Rub can help you whip up some Green Chile Chicken Burritos in practically no time, and a their New Mexican Red Chile Powder will help you impress your friends with a tantalizing Chile Colorado Con Carne. You can find recipes for these items, plus many more authentic New Mexican staples, on their website. You can also find their dozens of products nationwide, at Whole Foods, Dean & Deluca and The Fresh Market.

Buen provecho!

Tucked into the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains just outside Santa Fe, you’ll discover The Spa at Encantado (www.encantadoresort.com), New Mexico’s only AAA Five Diamond resort. Surrounded by endless protected lands, spacious pueblo-style casitas and suites dot the landscape at Encantado , each commanding impressive views across the Rio Grande Valley to the distant Jemez Mountains. Guests to The Spa at Encantado are encouraged to begin their experience with a complimentary Purification Ritual, utilizing the spa’s luxurious amenities. A hot outdoor soak and relaxing steam in the Kiva sauna prepare you  physically and mentally for your treatment ahead.

The Kiva-inspired relaxation room at The Spa at Encantado.

Another kiva-styled room, the relaxation area, is where your therapist will collect you, and guide you down a breezeway to a small casita, some with a private patio areas and outdoor tubs for couples treatments.Here I received a signature 90-minute treatment, the Shiro Abhyanga ($245). The treatment began with a gentle stream of warm herbal oil to my forehead, said to quiet the “third eye,” followed by special attention to the neck, shoulders and scalp. The treatment continued with a lengthy massage, utilizing therapeutic herbal oils said to help dissolve toxins, and calm the nervous system, while stimulating the circulation and lymphatic systems. Unwilling to let the blissful experience end, I went back for another round of purification before retiring to my casita for a crisp-afternoon nap on my private patio, bundled in my robe with a fire nearby. Five Diamond, indeed.

BODY of Santa Fe

Walking into BODY of Santa Fe (www.bodyofsantafe.com) there’s an instantaneous sensation that you’ve entered a special place. Since opening in 2004, the inspiration behind BODY has been to create an inspirational and diverse community center for people from all walks of life, to better themselves. The sights and smells of the organic kitchen featuring vegan and raw offerings and display of raw chocolates tempt the taste buds, while the sustainable and organic fair-trade offerings in the expansive retail department entice you with a guilt-free shopping buzz. A unique combination of studio classes and fitness training, cooking classroom and childcare round out a “one-stop” approach to an eco-friendly and healthy lifestyle experience. But at the heart of BODY is the spa facility, a results-oriented tropical retreat in the mountainous high-desert town of quirky Santa Fe.

Environmentally sustainable, organic products that are chemical, preservative and artificial fragrance-free, work their magic on your body through traditional massage and facial offerings, including Thai and Hot Stone massage, both $130 for 90 minutes. There are also alternative bodywork treatments available, including acupuncture and deep-tissue structural alignment, both $95 for 60 minutes. What I especially like about the spa menu at BODY, besides the affordable prices, are the long list of add-ons available for face and body treatments, allowing you to personalize your visit.  The Cryo-Stem Cells + Derma Roller add-on, for only $30,
stimulates cell regeneration for the face. Naturally, these stem cells are harvested from organic, free-range bovine from the French Alps. Nothing else would do for your face, at BODY.

Ten Thousand Waves

I’ve long heard of a magic-like oasis in Santa Fe, New Mexico called Ten Thousand Waves (www.tenthousandwaves.com). Even the name is enchanting. On a recent visit to New Mexico, I made a point of visiting this Japanese Spa and Resort tucked into the mountains on the outskirts of Santa Fe. The dirt paths that meander through the property mix indigenous foliage with Japanese accents to create a uniquely serene atmosphere. Traditional Japanese gardens with koi ponds fuse eastern architecture and sensibility with New Mexican adobe and Santa Fe’s trademark artsy personality. There are many private outdoor tubs to choose from, including the Waterfall. This is a body-temperature tub which accommodates up to twelve people, a perfect place to sun and soak with friends. All private tubs are tucked into the woods; many with mountain views and private saunas and showers. There is also a communal, co-ed clothing-optional tub for the open-minded naturalist. (A favorite local hangout.)

While a full line of spa services are available (some in private Japanese pagodas with breathtaking views) the specialty of the house here is massage. A Master’s Massage will put you in the hands of the most highly trained and experienced therapist.  It’s purported that Santa Fe has more bodyworkers per capita than anywhere in the country. I heard from my local friends that the best massage therapists in all of Santa Fe work here. Secluded in the forest you’ll also find twelve unique lodging choices available. Each suite has a private outdoor area with a hibachi grill. The accommodations are reasonable in price, yet high in Zen style with adobe accents. Ten Thousand Waves is open year-round. It’s a local favorite for relaxing after a day skiing on the nearby slopes or admiring local artisan wares in the famed Canyon Road galleries.

vonSchmitt.com is the culmination of a lifetime of travel, friendships and a devotion to one’s roots. Your host is Joseph (the ‘von’ is optional) Schmitt, known here simply as JVS. As a freelance travel writer based in Southern California, his writings continue to appear in numerous publications around the globe. A native of Phoenix, Arizona, Joseph grew up outdoors, with frequent family adventures taking him from national parks in Alaska to deep-sea fishing in Mexico. Beginning in his teens, Joseph started traveling the world, studying abroad, learning new languages, and making friends the world over.

He received his undergraduate degree in Brazilian Studies from the School for International Training in Vermont, studied German at Albert-ludwigs-universität in Germany and completed the full curriculum at Landmark Education in Los Angeles. A self-described “global citizen” – his personal and writing interests include GLBT issues, foreign languages, spiritual studies, tropical beaches, spa treatments, human rights and green technologies.

Along with friends and professional contributors, he created vonSchmitt.com to showcase his love for his native American Southwest and to share his other adventures and insights from around the globe.

Is it any wonder JVS went on to become a travel writer?

Who put the “von” in von Schmitt?

The real question is – “Who took the von out of von Schmitt?” As a kid I was told that our real family name was ‘von Schmitt’ – but due to “the war”, overtly German-sounding names weren’t really in fashion, so the von was dropped.

Hundreds of years before my family settled in the then-wild west of Arizona, my authentic German ancestors were the rulers of a small mountain region called, you guessed it – Schmitt, in what is today southern Germany. We were the kings of the hill, literally. Our hard-working subjects toiled in fields, sewed our clothes and shoes and most likely entertained the court with fanciful dances and stupid-human tricks.  Said subjects also assumed a version of my family’s name, as if to proclaim their devotion and loyality – calling themselves, Schmidt – with a ‘d’ in lieu of the royal double ‘t’. Certainly no von for these grateful minions.

Von, in the German, means “of” or “from” – making it easy to pinpoint the origins of my now-defunct royal status.  If you google Schmitt in Germany, your heart might sink a tad, either from the quaintness of the four-street town, or in pity for ‘yours truly’ whose only chance at a decent blood line  went awry some 500 years ago – I never stood a chance. A ‘von’ in front of one’s name won’t even get you a better table at a chic restaurant, unless of course it’s followed by Furstenberg.

Regardless, I have taken it upon myself to reclaim my family name, if only in the trivial world of the internet. My would-be subjects back in the kingdom formerly known as Schmitt, need not worry. Their emancipation will go unchallenged. Rather, the ‘von’ of today is a simple nod to the German meaning of, well… of. Or, from. As in – of Schmitt. My personal views into travel, life, style – all things fabulous, green and adventurous. For that reason, and the fact that Schmitt.com was already taken, I present you a deported-princely view of the world around us, that is uniquely “of” me – but created exclusively “for” you.

- JVS